In the Heart of the Forest

The familiarity now of my city Phnom Penh embraced me, even at 5.30am as we drove in the pre-dawn light beginning a journey to Preah Vihear, one of Cambodia’s northern provinces. It was to be an adventurous, arduous journey to the heart of the forest.

We were to be guests of the Prey Lang Community Network for an overnight stay in the Prey Lang forest on a weekend expedition organised by Peace Bridges. This was an opportunity not-to-be-missed to learn about activism.   It was a journey of my heart too, learning from the hearts of poor rural Cambodian activists.

Daily in the city of Phnom Penh I witness huge economic disparities. The Khmer language for rich people is Nea Mien – literally the group of people who HAVE.  I see their desire for luxury timber products as evidence of their status.  But there are consequences for others.

I have been sadly aware of the deforestation of Cambodia as every week I read in the local press about prolific and unrelenting illegal logging.

 

When I read “One cause of this deforestation is often overlooked: global demand for luxury timber. In the case of Cambodia, the Chinese craving for rosewood—which includes any number of richly hued timbers—has spawned an illegal multi-million dollar timber trade where rare tree species are poached. Around 85% of Cambodia’s timber exports end up in China, where the wood is turned into furniture for the local market, but also into wood products such as luxury floors exported to U.S. and European markets.”  I knew it was time to see the forest before it was too late.

Joining us for the trip into the forest were members of the Prey Lang Community Network. Sitting in the darkness near our campfires (it was too hot to sit “around” them!), the network leaders shared their story. The forest provides more than just timber. There are favourite foods to be collected from the plant life.  There is income to be generated from collecting resin from the trees. There is the wonder of living beside such a marvelous natural resource and being able to find delight in simply belonging there.

Some network members have been engaged in lobbying for the forests for over a decade.  Others are in the Youth sectors of the network.  In response to my question as to what the network would like to achieve, one young man replied from his heart.  I want this forest to be here for my children’s children. It is a real fear that this may not be so.

Activists regularly go on patrol seeking out illegal loggers, confiscating chain saws and now destroying their inner workings before handing them to local authorities.  I learned there have been death threats made against three activists following chainsaw confiscations earlier this year.  Local authorities intimidate activists and their families.

I learned a little about the hearts of those who care deeply for the natural resources of this country and are prepared to risk their lives even to stand against levels of corruption I have never encountered personally.  Sadly, as I drifted to sleep delighting in the sounds of the forest’s wildlife, there was a distant sound of a chain saw.  And on our journey out of the forest we passed piles of logs lying in fields with armed guards beside them.  Our party’s leader was told these are “firewood”.

We were told that our visit alone would have made an impact in a small way. Loggers would have known that foreigners were in the forest, (we had been joined by some Danish Forestry students.) and no logs would have been removed from the forest while we were there.  Now the community activists welcome my sharing this story in this way so more people may know that their livelihoods are being threatened.

Our local hosts live in villages without running water and electricity.  Education and health infrastructures are poor. The delights of the forest are one thing freely available to them.  My heart aches for their loss and I am impacted by their willingness to seek justice at the risk of their own lives.

I now understand more the story of a young Khmer friend here in Phnom Penh who comes from a distant province, which he rarely has an opportunity to visit, and when he does, sadness embraces him.  As a child he loved to run in the forest, to chase after wild animals.  Life was tough growing up in his poor family and he had to work all the time; the forest was his greatest source of delight.  He too lives with the sadness that future generations may not know that.

Living in this city of disarray I need to escape to a place of green.  It is life giving to me.  I shall always treasure my up-close glimpse in the heart of the forest into the hearts of Cambodian villagers.   Their desire is that the forest experience be known by generations to come in this land.  I shall treasure my witness to their heart of belonging that I can observe but never fully enter into.

I will always be grateful to have seen Prey Lang.  The journey was arduous and DUSTY, but so worth it to be in a forest in Cambodia.  There is peace in a forest and life to be seen and heard.   A special gift was to listen to the local villagers express their love for the forest – a place that provides food and livelihoods.  Their hearts desire to preserve this for future generations is heartfelt and worthy of attention around the world.